The Return
Their flight arrives tonight at 8:56 PM.
Thank you for confirming everything, very helpful.I dont need any of that information really because it is on my tickets and stuff right? just making sure. Thank you for going over it with me though because im sure we could f*** it up if we tried. We were in granada last night, and it is so beautiful. even if there are a few to many tourists for my taste, but whatever, we are two of them. And yes, i am about ready to come home now as well, so you donÃt have to worry about us not showing up on that flight. Unless of course our flight is canceled, or bush decides to ban international flights due to terrorist risks (knocks on wood). Anyway, much love but me and hil are off to masaya now. Talk to you soon
MUCH LOVe
mateo
We canÃt find a place to buy stamps, and i swear to god we have asked just about ever person we have come by. We asked Ruth (my teacher), she said she didnÃt know. We asked david (kid i lived with), said he had never sent mail. We asked hils teacher, the people that lived in my house. people on the street. All of them looked at us as if we were crazy. Anyway, we will keep on trying, but i cant promise anything
Mateo
Hi All,
granada really is just the same. when we were with bertha and family they had us try chinchuron (pig skin) and†i said i had tried it once before and couldnÃt deal with what it was. and while driving through granada we passed the EXACT place i had tried it! with Los Chicos! i tried to tell them that but i donÃt know if i got my point across (her parents didnÃt speak english fluently, so we spoke in spanish to them).
itÃs really quite beautiful here. matt and i went to masaya this afternoon and bought some more presents (we’re all done!) he got a hammock for himself, and i bought a hammock chair for renee. they’ll be fairly easy to bring home, i hope. together, the three of them cost $37. but matt and i are getting cheap.
me and matt went out to eat at one of the best places ever! La Gran Francia. we got these plantains filled with red beans and cheese. wow, it was just amazing. there was this salsa and sour cream with them. and then he got chicken dijon blue and i got steak with jalapeno peppers (i was going to get a normal chicken breast and then he told me i was being boring. and then i told him he should get the chicken breast and i’d get something else. and so i got the steak. but it took me about 20 minutes to decide on what to get cuz i wasn’t sure about the jalapeno sauce, etc., etc. but it was amazing!). for dessert he got chocolate mousse that really just made you want to die so that you could die happy, and i got caramel flan that was good but not as amazing as the chocolate mousse.†i asked if we could go back for just the dessert the next night, cuz no where else in nicaragua has desserts (GASP!) and he said it wasnÃt that kind of place. it was really quite upscale, with great service. and WATER. normally they don’t have a glass of water always filled for you, and you have to order water and a different drink if you want both, and itÃs just a pain. but here they had a water glass for you at all times! it was wonderful. and the water was delicious! mwa hahaha.
afterwards we were talking about how expensive it had been. and then we realized that we have just gotten extraordinarily cheap — the dinner cost $40. for a GOOD dinner, with GREAT service, for TWO people, with WATER, and AMAZING meat and dessert that was delectable.
i told him that when we get back we’re going to be like those old people who are like “back in MY day, that only cost a nickel. cackle cackle cackle”. he told me i had already made that joke at least 3 times (i had only said it once before, i promise).
i love you all, Hilary
REMEMBER!!!!! PARTY at MY HOUSE, SATURDAY. call my parents if you’re gonna come.)
I don’t suppose we’ll hear from the teenage tourists again until they reach Managua on Thursday.
This follows ìMore Than a Phone Callî , and I donÃt think it stands alone. ItÃs a phone call I had with my mother about the funeral for the husband of my motherÃs friend who shot himself in his living room.
ìYou went to the service for AliceÃs husbandî?
ìWe did. It was a beautiful day, seven oÃclock in the evening. Not even hot, no hotter than eighty.
ìWhere was he buried?î
ìThe cemetery on Oak Hill Road. ItÃs out 41, on a hill near Whirlpool?î
ìThere are no hills near Whirlpool. it must have been past the airport.î
My mother loves it when I tell her sheÃs mistaken about something she knows is true. I think we might have been arguing perceptions.
Patiently, she answered, ìIf you turn right near Whirlpool you go up a hill.î
ìWhirlpool is as flat as the nearby airport runway… .î
ìThere were about twenty-five people. The cemetery had only markers, no upright stones, and it was touching to see the children and grandchildren running about, playing. Although my father wouldnÃt have allowed it. He said stepping on graves was disrespectful. Alice was wearing a black pantÃs suit she bought for the service. She weighs eighty-four pounds and her fitter said she was a size zero. I didnÃt know there was such a thing.î
ìEighty-four pounds. How tall is she?î
ìNot much taller than I, but she started losing weight when George got cancer.î
ìA woman who scrubs the blood of her husband off her carpets. I donÃt know…I pictured someone bigger. How about Lisa, the daughter he was so close to?î
ìShe was still pretty tore up.î
My precise mother never says ìtore up,î and sheÃs probably cringing reading this, but itÃs more evocative than ìtorn up.î She said it this time, so it stays.
ìLisa came with her husband and children. You know I always thought she had gay tendencies, but thatÃs because she had so closely imitated her fatherÃs mannerisms. She walks like he did.î
ìNot to be morbid, but you saw them lower his body into the grave?î
ìNo, no, he was cremated. They buried his urn next to his daughterÃs grave, or they sprinkled his ashes on it. I couldnÃt tell from where I sat. You remember that is what they did with MackÃs sister, Joan. Her ashes were placed in the ground next to her motherÃs. I donÃt know what people will do with me. Not that they will listen to what I want.î
Years ago, not long after her brother died, my mother and I argued about her burial. She wants to be cremated and her ashes flung out to sea, or buried in a garden, or enriched with an emulsion of sunflower seeds and fed to the cardinals – anything but a body in a grave. ItÃs not lying in dirt, itÃs the waste of space, of her burden on the environment. I was adamant. I wanted her in the ground, somewhere I could go and talk to her. I didnÃt want to be following some nesting song bird just just to say, ìHi.î It wasnÃt too long after this conversation that I decided chasing birds wasnÃt so bad.
ìWe listen, you know we do. WeÃll do what you want.î
ìJust be sure you play a recording of Tess (BrianÃs wife) on the Tabla Drums. ItÃs hard to get people to do what you want. Alice couldnÃt get the minister she wanted for the funeral. You know, they werenÃt church going people. But she has iron up her back, she told me, ë WeÃre just going to have to do it ourselves.à ì
Hey father,
it almost sounds as if i am neglecting you guys in the blog, but no worries, i sent something to make up for it. You have to check momÃs email. We have been having such a great time and since this was our last night in esteli, we went out to a very nice restaraunte with one of the kids from my family. i think i am a little sick again, but ill be fine. I have been sleeping a lot today and donÃt feel all that great. Anyway, the time is winding down, and i am definitely looking forward to coming home, although the next few days with be fun since we are just hanging out in granada and masaya. Anyway,
MUCH LOVE
Mateo
********************
Matt,
I blog everything you and Hil send, no matter who it is addressed to. Mom read your latest email – the long one – out loud and we loved it. It seems you and Hil trade being sick – one day it’s you and then it’s her. So, how much does a real nice restaurant in Esteli cost? And what did you have to eat?
We went out for dinner last night. We used our last Walden Grill gift certificate, sat at the bar and had crab cakes and sirloin tips. It was fun, but we overate, as usual. Then we stopped to see Nana to make sure she was following her doctorÃs orders, which she was not. When we arrived, she wasnÃt wearing her eye protector because she said it made TV watching difficult. We both threatened her with physical harm until she put it on. We know as soon as we left, off it came.
Love
Dad
********************
haha,
a real nice restaraunte in esteli costs about 14 dollars for three people. And that is not bad if you ask me because it would cost about the same to go to mcdonalds. I had filet mignon, which here involves the steak being surrounded by bacon, omg it was so good. Hil had a different kind of steak and david had fish. It was a nice way to spend our last night. today at around three we leave for granada, hopefully, and we will spend the two days there. I am definitely getting very excited about coming home. it has been a very long trip and i miss people
Anyway
off i go
Much love
Mateo
Hey all,
so thursday after classes i return home to find that the driver that the Cuadros sent is there, and has been since 8 that morning. Apparently this is not even a problem, but i felt pretty bad. The three hour drive was not bad, but hil was feeling pretty sick and had been sick right before we left. When we arrived at their house, we knew that we had underestimated what having money was…. or at least I had, as hil said hmmm i expected their house to be bigger. I have no idea what she was talking about because it was the biggest house in nicaragua that i had ever seen. It had a yard, two maids, and a bunch of drivers. Not only that but gardeners and the such. The maids were the nicest people i’ve met and they got us drinks and food once we arrived. It turns out that one of them was the nanny of Edgar Cuadro when he was a child. (Edgar Cuadro being the father of the family). Bertha and Edgard were still in school at that point, but they arrived home soon after. Once Bertha arrived she told us we were going to go the presidential building and have our pictures taken with the president. We insisted that this was not necessary, but Bertha said that her mother thought it was. So off we went with one of the drivers to the presidential building, we stopped on the way to pick up Carolina, the second youngest sister. Once we arrived and were in the first security building, one of the guards asked bertha for ID, she responded by saying that she was pissed off he would even ask and brushed past him. At this point hillary says ®I am going to be sick®, and bertha says ®No don’t do that®Luckily Carolina showed hil to the bathroom where she became abruptly sick. I just found it kinda amusing and thought that that can not happen too often in the building. Once inside we were brought to the office of the mother, who is the party planner for the president. Planning all the occasions and being a kind of people person for the president. We were asked if we wanted anything to eat or drink about a hundred times. Always saying that we were fine, but muchos gracias. After that we were brought to the weighting room for the president who turns out to be a very nice guy. We got our pictures taken with him and talked for a little while. After that the mother gave us a tour of the whole building which was very cool. We were basically the only people there. We stopped in the kitchen to get a drink and one of the better sandwiches i’ve had. After that we headed back to the Cuadros house, where we hung out for the rest of the night. The next day we went to the Mall with edgard, who is 16 and a very cool kid. We came back to the house, had dinner and then Bertha tells us that we are going out with her and a bunch of her friends. At about eight, we are picked up by the driver of one of her friends, and we go around picking up more people than you would believe can fit in an SUV, 12 not including the driver. It was edgard me hilly and 9 other girls. Two of whom were from the states. One from penn. and the other from good old texas. Anyway, we went to a club named Aqua where we hung out, talked and danced. It was a pretty good night over all and hil got hit on by the ex-presidents son. The son of Aleman. So all in all it was pretty interesting. The next morning at about 6 we got up and left for San Juan del Sur. Where they have yet another beautiful house on this hill, the only downside is there were more stairs than i ever want to see again. They live on a private beach in this private little community… did i mention the maid came with us, well she did. We hung out there, and swam and just took it easy. A very relaxing time. And the food was so good. So good, it was some very good meat and i couldn’t believe our luck at finding these friendly people. The next day we hung out for part of the day, swam and ate. After that we packed up and headed back to managua. We hung out at the house, ordered some Pizza Hut pizza, which was soooo good and something i haven’t had in a while and i played Halo with edgard. Then this morning, we had a driver take us to the bus station, and then took the bus back here, just in time for about an hour of school. Over all the weekend was great, and was a definite high point of the trip. Thank you very much to the Cuadros. Tomorrow is our last day in Esteli, i am packing up tonight, and we leave at 3 tomorrow afternoon. Tonight we are going out to dinner, and then tomorrow we are off to granada. It looks like a very beautiful city, and we have made reservations at this hotel that also has the best ice cream, the Cuadros recommended the hotel on our way back from San Juan, when we also stopped to sample this ice cream, and pick up Nacatamales, which are a great nicaraguense breakfast. We are spending two nights in Granada, but we are going to take a day trip to Massaya, which should be fun, and then we are going to head back to Managua, where we will stay at the quaker house and then we leave friday morning. The trip is winding down fast, and we will be back at the end of the week. Although i am sad to be leaving this beautiful country, i am also kind of glad. It has been a long trip and i miss my friends. I also think that we have accomplished what we needed to, being able to carry on conversations in spanish… most of the time. Anyway, i will email again before the trip is done.
Much love to all
Mateo
After a long conversation late last night with both Hil and Matt from BerthaÃs house, with Bertha laughing and her dog yelping in the background, that included a long string of how great this is and how much fun that was, I asked, ìSo Matt, tell me exactly what incentive do you have to come home?
ìNone,î he replied, and then launched into, ìDad, we got to meet the president of Nicaragua in his building, and when the security guard asked for identification, Bertha just laughed at him and kept walking, and we were the only ones there, and HilÃs vomiting was Hilarious, and weÃre having pizza tonight and they have the only yard weÃve seen so far, and … .î
WeÃll all be at the airport Friday night. Will they?
And Day Brought Back My Night
It was so simple: you came back to me
and I was happy. Nothing seemed to matter
but that. That you had gone away from me
and lived for days with him– it didnÃt matter.
That I had been left to care for our old dog
and house alone–couldnÃt have mattered less!
On all this, you and I and our happy dog
agreed. We slept. The world was worriless.
I woke in the morning, brimming with old joys
till the fact-checker showed up, late, for work
and started in: Item: itÃs years, not days.
Item: you had no dog. Item: she isnÃt back,
in fact, she just remarried. And oh yes, item: you
left her, remember? I did? I did. (I do.)
Geoffrey Brock
ChrisÃs parents took us to see The Finn Brothers (formerly Crowded House), Martin Sexton, and Angela McCluskey last Saturday night. There was an attractive couple in front of us who danced next to their chairs, but were prevented from using the wide open spaces next to us by the ever present security guards. Absurd.
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“Where are those kids? It’s 5:30, shouldn’t they be back in Esteli at their stations?”
If there are any blog readers who have heard from the wandering wonders, please leave a comment.
Chris is away at baseball camp and will return for one week of work before he leaves again, this time for trips to Ohio and the Cape with his parents. I figure I have maybe two more stories involving Chris, and this one, which will put most people who are not blood relatives to sleep, is one of my favorites.
For two weeks, we hammered, cut, pried, smashed and sometimes bled, removing all the water-damaged wood from the side of the building. Finally, we began to reassemble what we had torn away. Thursday we nailed clapboards, and Friday when we arrived, I had hoped to continue. However, we found yet more rotted wood, this a heavy timber called a header that formed the supporting member above a window. I desperately wanted to continue the simple task of cutting the clapboards while Chris nailed. I didnÃt want to breathe in more dead carpenter ant bodies, or be showered with hot nail filings as we sawed out the offending pieces.
Chris had other ideas.
ìLetÃs finish with the rotted wood.î
ìNo, we can work around it.î
ìBut if we do that, weÃll have to backtrack.î
ìBut not much. I need a break. I want to do the fun stuff.î
I was also worrying, given how hard weÃd been working and how restless my nights, that I was too tired to know if weÃd adequately supported the interior ceiling. Each supporting member we chopped away threatened the stability of the wall. On its own, the two stories had sagged to form a dip in the kitchenÃs hardwood floor.
Chris, an accomplished hammerer, continued, ìIf we finish it today, we wonÃt have to do it Monday.î
At some point I began asking myself the same thing you are. Who is the boss and who is the worker? WhoÃs the parent; who is the child? How did this child become so responsible?
I weakened.
ìAll right. Okay. I give. But grant me one wish. LetÃs first finish those clapboards ( I pointed to a space between the sliding door and the window). Then we can tear out the header and hope the building doesnÃt collapse.
ìIf we donÃt start now, we wonÃt finish by the end of the day.î
From last night’s concert at the Fleet Pavilion.
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